Thursday, June 26, 2008

Bergen, Norway: June 24 to June 26

After nine days at sea (!!) we arrived in Bergen, Norway early on the morning of Tuesday, June 24. As I opened my curtains at around 7:30 A.M. I was met with the most glorious view shown in the two pictures below.


That initial impression lasted; Bergen is an amazingly gorgeous city and I have spent the past three days exploring with various groups, individuals, and on my own. Below is a sampling of how I spent that time; it would take too long to include everything (and you would likely fall asleep) so these are some of the highlights. They likely won't do the past three days justice; they have been spectacular. (Advance apologies for the overuse of adjectives like beautiful, wonderful, spectacular, glorious, etc.; they are hard to avoid and accurate.)

Tuesday
The day began with an 8 AM meeting where we were briefed by a diplomat from the US Embassy on the history of Norway and some safety tips (there weren't many; Bergen is incredibly safe and it's light for almost 24 hours a day). The economy is one based on oil and Norway is a major exporter. They are investing wisely and so their economy appears to be booming. When they exhaust their oil resources they will return to the fish business. They have
socialized medicine, wonderful maternity and paternity leave policies, and attending university is free. Taxes are about 25% and included in the sticker price you see. And Norway is very, very expensive. A bottle of water or soda is about $4.00; a meal will run you about $40.00-50.00 without wine (about $20.00) or beer (about $12.00) and gas seems to run about $9.35/gallon. Desert is also about $20.00. Your "run of the mill" souvenir is about $15.00. You get the idea.

Norway chose not to participate in the EU and thus their money system consists of the Kroner. Right now, with the US economy the way it is, the exchange rate is about 5 kroner per $1.00. We quickly became quite good at rounding and dividing by five to figure out how much things cost.

I had plans to meet with LaVahn and MF Hoh later in the morning and to take a city tour at 1:00 but I was anxious to explore so I set off on my own for the next hour. I ran into Karen (Ryan) and her son and we followed the crowd into the city. Although it was cold, windy and raining the main street we encountered was beautiful. We found the ATM and explored some stores but mostly I was happy to be walking on solid ground. The odd thing is that once you get your sea legs walking on land can be a challenge. Most of us stumbled around as we still felt the ship rocking even though we were off the ship.

I headed back to the ship to meet up with LaVahn, his wife and Bill Wilkerson and we did some more walking, grabbed lunch and went to meet our tour bus. SAS has an endless list of 1/2 day trips, days trips and overnight trips. I prefer less structured activities but wanted to go on the tour to get the lay of the land so I signed up for the Bergen City/Mt. Floyen Tour. The tour bus drove us around Bergen and we got a nice history lesson on the downtown area of the city.

We saw several old buildings and churches and learned a great deal about the historic buildings located on the water.



The Kontor (a foreign trading post) in Bergen was the last of the four Hanseatic Kontors to be established and it lasted the longest. The society consisted of all males; members were not permitted to marry and returned to Germany when their term was completed. This Kontor closed in 1899 ending almost 500 years of trading between Germany and Norway. Below are the buildings where the Germans lived; they are currently under restoration as they are sinking and tilting (see the stairs in the second picture). This is the result of the building being built on top of about 7 meters of ash which is very soft; the ash is the result of hundreds of years of fires because all of the buildings are built of wood.


Our last stop was to the top of Mt. Floyen which we accessed by taking the funicular (like a tram). Despite the fact that it was raining off and on, sometimes even pouring, the view was spectacular. The three pictures below show the funicular, and two views from the top of Mount Floyen (the second one shows our ship which looked quite small next to the giant cruise ship).

At the end of the tour we returned to the ship and then headed out to dinner. LaVahn had information on a great restaurant which we walked to quite easily and the three of us (LaVahn, MF and I) had a wonderful dinner. (We have grown quite tired of ship food and so it tasted even better.) I had the salmon. At 7:30 LaVahn and MF headed back to the ship but given how light it was (and how stuffed I was) I decided to walk. I spent the next two hours walking up and down a number of streets and also found a beautiful mall (where I bought a few pieces of warm clothing). At around 9:30 I headed back and along the way encountered a range of people including David Gies who had just arrived (his wife has been on the ship working in the library) along with a few other people. We strolled back to the ship amazed at the night and the nightlife and the light (I know I keep mentioning the light but the midnight sun is fascinating.) The picture below was taken at around 10:30.
Wednesday
Our plan today was to meet at around 9 and explore Torget (the famous fish market and craft fair). A few of us headed out along with Haley Parker (rising 4th year UVA student). The fish market was wonderful... all kinds of crafts and souveniers but also amazing fish with free samples of salmon, shrimp and cod (I tasted the first two) as well as reindeer, elk, moose and whale (which I passed on). Haley, MF and I decided to shop and stroll for about an hour before meeting back at the market for noon. We paused to take some pictures at this beautiful plaza area with a fountain.


By noon we were back at Torget for a great meal of smoked salmon and salad and then headed to the archaeology museum! They have a great permanent exhibit on the historic district and a temporary exhibit on witches which was nicely done and interesting though Bergen apparently only burned at the stake one woman thought to be a witch. For my fellow archaeologists below are three pictures just for you.



After a few hours at the museum we divided up and Haley and I took off on foot. We walked and walked and walked (and walked)... through the town -- the stores, the plazas, the churches, the small alleyways, the University of Bergen, and up and down almost every little street we found. We stopped for ice cream ($5.00) and a soda ($6.00).

This is St. Paul's Church and the view of the city from the stairs...


and this is one of the main buildings at the University of Bergen...

We loved the restaurant from the previous night so much that we decided to return so Haley and I met up with LaVahn, MF, Gordon Braden and Bill Wilkerson at around 6:30 for another wonderful dinner (this time I skipped the desert and this was less stuffed by the end of the meal!). We walked back at around 10:00 and headed to the Faculty Lounge for a drink. About eight of chatted for an hour and then, as I was heading to sleep, I ran into my daughter (who I never see!) who filled me in on her wonderful day -- an all-day excursion on busses, boats and a train to see the fjords (a few of her pictures are below because they are so beautiful). Plus she seems to have befriended a troll... a rare occurrence here in Norway where trolls can do scary things to us humans.


Thursday
Another rainy, damp day... so common here up North. Our plan was to head to Ole Bull's villa and we were determined to go despite the weather. This involved navigating two busses and a small motor boat to get to the island on which his villa was located. As we got off the first bus to switch busses we encountered the Casteen clan (John and Laurie and their two children and Laurie's mother). We all eventually made it to the island and the house which was magnificent. Built in 1872/1873 the pictures below don't do the house justice; it is piece of art. We listened to a short tour and walked through the parts of the house in which we were permitted and then (cold and wet) sat down for a cup of coffee and a small bite to eat at the Kafe. We had a delightful conversation with our tour guide, Anna-Clara who is a German exchange student studying education at the University of Bergen.



We had to catch a 2:30 ferry so that we didn't miss a bus and so we began the long, windy, terrifying trip back. Terrifying because the bus drivers navigate the roads leaving enough room to fit a tissue between them and the oncoming traffic. And, we were heading downhill on very windy roads. But we made it back to town where we did some more walking and ate a light (ish) dinner and I am now back on the ship!

Tomorrow is our last day in Bergen; we leave at 2100 hour for St. Petersbger; ship time is 1900 hours. That is the time by which you have to have passed through security and swiped in with your card. Being in line doesn't count and since everyone tries to spend as much time as possible in port, the line can be long. If you are late you get docked time at the next port. This includes EVERYONE: Faculty, Staff, students, etc. Thus, my plan is to get up sort of early, head out at around 9:30 to do some last minute walking, shopping and eating and to return to the ship by 3:00. This should give me some quiet time before dinner to grade papers and prepare for my Saturday and Sunday classes. (Yes, we teach on the weekends as there is no concept of day, week, weekend here on the ship.).
Monday is "Russia Day" and we will pull into St. Petersberg at 8 AM on Tuesday. Right now my plans include a tour of the Circus Museum with Rebecca (she is taking History of the Circus), and then the ballet in the evening. I'll then do some exploring and plan to spend a day (or two) at The Hermitage. As of right now I have decided not to go to Moscow as I have never been to St. Petersberg and it seems to be a very walkable, relatively safe place. Stay tuned!

P.S. Check Facebook for more pictures and less text!

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

And We're Off Part Deux - Sailing to Norway, June 15 to June 24

Sunday
On Sunday, June 15 we began preparations to leave Halifax and sail to Norway. On Saturday my daughter (Rebecca) boarded and we went out to dinner with two students she met on the plane and Kyle Mihalcoe (rising 4th year at UVA, former Orientation leader and a student I know quite well). We found a nice pizza place and I bought Rebecca her first legal drink... at least in Canada where the drinking age is 18.

On Sunday all the students boarded between 8 AM and 12 PM, parents came on board from 1 to 2:30 to tour the ship and say farewell and the life jacket drill began at 4:00 PM (see picture below). Cute outfit, eh? (Hard not to pick up that Canadian "a" at the end of a sentence because it's just so natural).

We were originally scheduled to leave port at 5 PM but close to 30 students were stranded in various airports (Chicago, Boston and New York) due to cancelled flights so they were not on board. Due to some miraculous work by many people all 583 students made it. Unfortunately for about 31 students their luggage did not. Together, those 31 students are missing 46 pieces of luggage so they have only the clothes on their back and whatever was in their carry-on bag. Students are lending clothes to them to wear until we get to Norway where they will hopefully find their belongings.

So, after a two-hour delay, we pulled out of port at 7 PM with the ISE crew standing on the side waving, the parents a bit further down waving and the bagpipes playing. We also all lined up to wave and take pictures.


We had to go in a circle around Devil's Island to set the compass (not sure why this needs to be done in this technological age but it does). In fact, the captain told the parents not to be alarmed when they saw him go in a circle twice (once to set the compass and once to get out of the harbor) as he really does know what he is doing.

There were lots of opportunites for photos. Laurie Casteen and Iain Campbell were celebrating their birthdays. And Rebecca and I posed for a shot as we left land.


Sailing out was nice and pretty smooth. It was odd to know we were seeing the last piece of land that we would see for 9 days.


To date I am free of sea sickness though I don't know how long that will last. I am wearing my sea bands and am a firm believer in their power (even if it is only psychological).

Monday
Today was our first full day at sea since New York. Since 3 AM we have been almost completely encased in fog which means the foghorn sounds every 4 minutes or so (making it hard to sleep). There were some moments of clarity but for the most part all you see is between 0 to 10 feet on either side of the ship.

The sea is relatively calm though we have hit some rockier water but I'm still (as of 9 PM Monday) doing okay. We heading pretty far north now so it's stay light longer and longer. Sunset tonight is listed as 9:45 PM. We lose an hour every other night so tomorrow sunset will be at almost 11 PM. I love all the light; unfortunately it's also about 45 degrees outside and the ship is also always chilly.

The day was filled with orientation meetings -- mostly for students. We had a "course fair" where students could come by and speak with us and I must say they seem like a good group so far. Everyone is friendly, outgoing and anxious to meet one another. As the Director of Student Life told them -- "this is like your freshman year all over again." The clothing of choice seems to be "school gear" and it's fun to walk around and see students with varied teeshirts and sweatshirts from their home institutions (e.g., Pitt, UCSD, UCSB, Colorado, Colorado State, U of Buffalo, JMU (my daughter), Virginia Tech (one student), etc.).

Also on board are 42 "life-long learners". I haven't interacted with them very much but the few people I have met are quite nice and happy to be here. So as of today, I can say that ship life is pretty good. It's some kind of odd combination between a residence hall, camping, a really nice hotel and a spa. Very strange. Classes begin tomorrow so we have all been scrambling to fine tune our course syllabi and get materials to our online folders where students can find them. No access to Toolkit or Collab here but there are these online folders where we post materials.

Tuesday
I taught my first two classes at sea. Some interesting "firsts" and challenges. For example, I have never taught a class where I:
1. held onto the podium for dear life
2. told students to run out as needed without any explanation
3. left bags by the door for them to grab on the way out
4. had a 360 degree view of water and the occasional bird
5. wrote on a dry erase board as illegibly as I did today

But I made it!

My ANTH 101 class (Introduction to Anthropology) has 37 students; 36 "regular" students and one life-long learner. We're a little crowded but hopefully it will work, My other class, ANTH 386 (Egalitarian to Empire) is at about 21 which is a good size for discussions, etc. I teach in the same classroom both times which is nice. It's a bid of an odd set up (small round tables with 5 chairs/table) but I'll get used to it.

Another first today, unrelated to teaching, was that I attended a wedding on a ship! Or, should I say a renewal of vows. LaVahn and M.F. Hoh celebrated their 19th wedding anniversary in the middle of the North Atlantic by renewing their wedding vows. The Captain (Captain Jeremy Kingston) performed the wedding ceremony which was quite lovely. The ceremony was held in the Faculty lounge and most of the Faculty attended. It was followed by a lovely reception.


Tonight (Tuesday) we lose another hour and I think everyone is already feeling tired so tomorrow will be interesting. I suppose losing an hour every other night is preferable to losing 7 hours all at once. And, I suppose when we come home time will almost stand still as we gain an hour every other night.

Wednesday
Day two of classes and the sun came out! We can finally see beyond the rails of the ship and the foghorn hasn't gone off in almost 15 hours. What a delight. It's still quite cool though the sun feels good. I am sitting in the "living area" of my cabin with the door to my balcony open and I am enjoying the fresh air. Perhaps more importantly, I also discovered that the snack bar sells frozen yogurt.

I am about to hold office hours and have three students scheduled to come see me. Classes went well; everyone attended and only person got sick (an accomplishment). The seas are pretty smooth today but you are always rocking and sometimes more than others. I seem to be able to sleep pretty well though I am occasionally awakened by more severe rocking. I am still wearing my sea bands and happy to report that I have not (yet) been sick. I can read, write, type, etc. and I am not taking off these bands.

The rest of the week brings my first community college talk. These are talks, there are typically three each day, held every evening we are at sea from 8-9 on a range of topics. Two tend to be more academic/professional and one tends to be more "hobby" based (at least that's the general plan). Attendance is optional. My talk tomorrow is called "What is Culture?" Friday brings our first Faculty meeting (no escaping those, even at sea) at 5:00 PM. It's interesting to live temporarily in this world that is free of the 8-5/Monday through Friday constraints. Where else would you attend a Faculty meeting at 5:00 PM on a Friday? And, while there is a break from classes on Saturday, we will be teaching bright and early on Sunday morning. On the other hand, none of us know what day it is anyway so that's been interesting.

A final note for this portion of the blog: the seas have become pretty rough and many of us, myself include, are a bit queasy now. No one can walk in a straight line and we all look quite drunk (some of the students might, in fact, be drunk). However, with the ship rocking like this the last thing any of us want is a glass of wine. Hopefully, we'll all get through the night okay. More soon. Miss you all.

Friday, June 13, 2008

Life on the MV Explorer - June 10-15

Since I've been basically restricted to the ship since Wednesday afternoon June 11 when our Orientation meetings began, I thought I would spend some time writing about life on the water. It may not be as interesting as pictures of Pompeii, Athens and other sites but for the past 4 days my view has been of the Port de Halifax and the harbor.

We've been pretty steady in harbor (the New York harbor was rockier) but we have all been told that crossing the North Atlantic can be quite rocky. And the biggest mistake they made was telling us that the ship is "unsinkable." Now where did we hear that before?

Anyway, I thought I'd give my impressions of ship life now, sometime in July, and again in mid-August. They will no doubt change as the voyage progresses. So here goes.

The Ship
We're on board the fairly new MV Explorer (we learned that MV stands for motor vessel as opposed to SS which stands for steam ship -- which the ship is not) which the Captain says is the fastest cruise ship in the world. It is 591 feet long and 83 feet wide. We make our own water and electricity though I don't know how. There are about 200 active crew and about 300 total crew employed. The Captain and his staff are quite diverse -- the captain, Jeremy Kingston, is from England. The rest of his staff is from Greece, Italy, Germany and Romania. We had a tour of the bridge yesterday (see pictures below) which was interesting. We were all surprised to see that the steering wheel was so small!




Apparently the ship runs on auto-pilot much of the time. We burn 70-80 tons of fuel per day when we are at sea and about 8 tons/day in port. Fuel now costs about $560.00 per metric ton as opposed to $180.00 per metric ton a few years ago. This is not the same fuel we use in our cars... it is more like very crude diesel. (Note that I have no idea what I am talking about; I am just repeating what we were told.) The panel below is one of several which allows the crew to monitor the ship in various ways at all times. There is an elaborate fire panel which tells the captain and crew exactly where a fire is (should one break out) and allows them to close fire doors. There is an elaborate alarm/sprinkler system.

The crew runs drills all the time. Today we watched them lower the life boats while Karen Ryan tried to talk aminst various loud alarms. There are always medical drills (code blue).

Once in port we use the gangway to get off the ship. How steep it is will vary from port to port; it currently runs from Deck 5 and has 49 steps!


My Cabin
After two moves I was finally able to settle into my permanent cabin (it's not a room) which is beautiful. I am on the much desired 7th deck (not floor) in a lovely suite. I have two closets, lots of storage, a double bed and a "living area." Below is the hallway to my room, my room door (all the 7th floor suites have names), and my sleeping area.



I also have a private balcony with two recliners, two chairs and a small table. The crew cleans the rooms and makes the beds everyday -- I couldn't ask for more. My neighbor to the left is Karen Ryan, to the right is LaVahn Hoh and his wife. Allen Lynch is right across the hall, Gordon Braden is two doors down from me and Julian Connolly is around the corner. It's very different to walk out of your "home" and see all these people in the hallway and at meals but it's also quite nice. Everyone sits in tables of 4 to 6 and we all make room for anyone who wanders over (more on the food below). Because of this I've had the chance to meet many of the Faculty from other schools which has also been fun. We're starting to "bond" and it seems to be a fun group.

Food
When we first arrived on Sunday we were with an SAS alumni group that stayed on board until Tuesday. The food was quite good. Since then, the quality has declined a bit but the logistic of feeding 1,000 people per day with no food coming in is a challenge. It's certainly edible and some is even quite good. I've had a bit of a challenge finding gluten free foods so I've mostly been eating salad, fish, potatoes and cooked vegetables. We have omelets and fresh fruit at breakfast and they're pretty good. And, I bought three bags of gluten-free corn flakes. Yum!

The meals that we ate out in Halifax were excellent. Last night we found a wonderful place called McElvie's. Eight of us went there and Mary Carlson (U.Va.) had a great desert (see her glee below; note my emphasis on deserts). I had to pose with the wooden carving at the entryway.



Other Spaces
Most of us don't spend much time in our cabins. There is a large lecture room called The Union which is where we have been meeting for our Orientation meetings (these started on Wednesday at 4 PM and have been pretty much non-stop ever since). The space is quite nice. See anyone you know in the picture just below?


There are nine classrooms; eight are on the Deck 6 and one (mine -- Classroom 9) is on the Deck 5. There are two dining halls (on Decks 5 and 6 -- one is large and one is medium). There is also a computer lab;

library;

and a large Faculty/Staff lounge in which students are absolutely prohibited (it's where I am writing from right now). It has numerous tables and chairs and an open bar with snacks (for pay) from 9-11. It's also wireless and has large windows all around the periphery.

There is another snack bar on Deck 6 with a piano and tables and chairs. There's also a place on Deck 5 called Tymitz Square (named after John Tymitz, a major ISE founder) and there one finds the Purser (open 24/7) and the Field Office. It's a good place to meet people when you're planning an outing though that too may change with the addition of 600 people.


The Students
All I know so far is that there are 583 students coming on board on Sunday making this the largest summer voyage ever. Of these 583 students, about 20 (21 to be exact) are from U.Va. Most of the schools have only one student attending. As a group, 74% (yes, 74%) are female. ISE (Institute for Shipboard Education) tells us this is a little high but that a 70-30 split is quite common for study abroad program. We have decided this is either because females are more adventurous or simply smarter (a known fact).

For those of you in Garrett who are reading this and know Kyle, he boarded today. We had dinner together along with LaVahn, MF and Bill Wilkerson from the COMM School who joined us late last night.

I have 36 students in my ANTH 101 class (Introduction to Anthropology) and 22 in my ANTH 386 class (From Egalitarian to Empire). Classes start on Tuesday, drop/add goes until Tuesday at midnight via a new online system built by Paul Madden (formerly of Garrett Hall). Any problems get mediated by our faithful and capable Registrar, Laurie Casteen (go Laurie!).
Students take two classes plus the Global Studies class which is being taught by Allen Lynch with the help of 4 GTAs (all from U.Va.). For the first time ever, Global Studies will be taught in two sections so that all students can be in the same room (it used to be piped into another classroom). Thus, Allen gets to teach the class twice.
That's all for today... I will likely update this post as we begin to sail to Norway. We will be at sea for 9 days straight and pass land once. Wish me luck!